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Archive for January, 2012

Penguin Expands Offerings

Tuesday, January 31st, 2012

Perry Ellis International Inc. has signed four new license agreements for its Original Penguin by Munsingwear brand.

In the U.S., the company has entered into agreements with The British Apparel Collection Ltd. and Tattoo Watches LLC to manufacture and distribute men’s hosiery, and men’s watches and jewelry, respectively. Under both agreements, product will be distributed within better department and specialty stores in the U.S. The hosiery will launch in June 2012, with watches and jewelry debuting for fall.

Internationally, the company entered into agreements with Ambucombal S.A. de C.V., and Linea Magna, S.A. de C.V., to manufacture and distribute men’s footwear and men’s, women’s, boys’ and girls’ sportswear, respectively. Under both agreements, product will be distributed within better department and specialty stores throughout Mexico. The sportswear will launch next month at Palacio de Hierro department store, with footwear debuting in March.

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Louboutin/YSL Battle It Out In Court

Wednesday, January 25th, 2012

NEW YORK — Christian Louboutin sat nervously at the end of a dark, wooden bench in the Daniel Patrick Moynihan courthouse in Manhattan Tuesday afternoon, listening attentively as his lawyers argued before a panel of three Appeals Court judges who will soon determine the fate of his red-sole trademark.

“For YSL and [its parent company] PPR Group, this might just be a legal matter, but that’s not the case for me,” Louboutin said, haltingly dipping into a red bag of Doritos. “On the contrary, to me it is very personal: After all, this is an intrinsic part of my life and my company, which bears my name — and which I have built over the past 20 years and still independently own. This is why I had to be there in person.”

Louboutin was flanked by Diane von Furstenberg, a friend and president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, who swooped into the courtroom wearing gold-rimmed aviators and a long black sparkly knit sweater over an off-white turtleneck and black skirt.

The French footwear designer was stoic as his lawyer, Harley Lewin of McCarter & English LLP, faced off against David Bernstein, lead counsel for Yves Saint Laurent.

At issue was whether a Manhattan Southern District judge came to the correct conclusion in August when he denied Louboutin a preliminary injunction, which would have stopped YSL from selling its red, monochromatic pump from the 2011 resort collection. In addition to siding with YSL, the lower court called into question the validity of the red-sole mark, which Louboutin obtained in 2008.

After Judge Victor Marrero delivered his verdict last summer, Lewin promptly filed an appeal, which led to Tuesday’s hearing before Judges José Cabranes, Chester Straub and Debra Livingston.

Standing before the grand, wood-paneled courtroom, Lewin said Judge Marrero “erred” because he viewed Louboutin’s mark as encompassing every shade of red, and not one shade of red, namely the brand’s signature Chinese red. As a result, Judge Marrero concluded that no one designer should have a “monopoly” on any color.

Lewin, who is also von Furstenberg’s lawyer and was introduced to Louboutin by the designer, told the judges: “We don’t claim anything but the mark as it is registered.”

When it was his turn to speak, YSL’s lawyer Bernstein of Debevoise & Plimpton told the judges, “Mr. Louboutin believes he’s an artist. He’s not a cobbler and we agree.”

Clad in a navy pin-striped suit, a frowning Louboutin gave a Gallic shrug as the rest of the courtroom, which was filled with a mix of fashionistas and lawyers, snickered.

“We make monochrome shoes,” said Bernstein, who argued that single-color design is integral to YSL’s DNA. “We don’t want to find out we can’t make red shoes.”

Periodically, the trio of judges interrupted both sides, inquiring not just about the red-sole trademark, but also criticizing Marrero’s opinion, which was only a positive for Louboutin.

“There are some far-reaching principles in this opinion,” said Straub. “What findings did he make to base this? I can’t find it. Show me where he recites in detail the basis for his holdings.”

According to Fordham Fashion Law professor Susan Scafidi, who was in the courtroom, such questioning doesn’t mean the judges will side with Louboutin, but if Marrero was present, he would have been “red-faced, had he been listening”

Now that the hearing is over, the judges will decide whether Marrero’s verdict stands, or if it will be reversed. If reversed, Louboutin and YSL will return to court to begin discovery in preparation for a trial.

“I was impressed by the way the judges ran the hearing,” Louboutin said. “The company remains confident that the appeals court will adhere to its conviction that the red sole, this integral and long-held part of the brand’s identity and recognized by consumers worldwide, will continue to be recognized as the Christian Louboutin trademark.”

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Bagwire Update: Coach Posts Big Sales Gains

Tuesday, January 24th, 2012

Coach Inc. posted double-digit percentage gains in both income and sales for the second quarter ended Dec. 31.

Income for the quarter rose 14.5 percent to $347.5 million, or $1.18 a diluted share, from $303.4 million, or $1 a share, last year. Sales rose 14.6 percent to $1.45 billion from $1.26 billion. North American comparable store sales gained 8.8 percent in the quarter.

Lew Frankfort, chairman and chief executive officer of Coach, Inc., said, “We’re very pleased with the strong sales and earnings growth we achieved once again this holiday quarter. Our performance reflected the strength of our franchise, our broad and diversified product platform and our multichannel, international distribution model.”

Frankfort added that strength in North American sales during the holiday season “indicates that we are continuing to increase our share of an expanding U.S. accessories market.”

The company’s direct-to-consumer sales now include the firm’s Singapore business. In China, nine new locations were opened in the quarter, including a flagship in Hong Kong. In Japan, six new locations were opened.

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Retailers Applaud Obama’s Plan To Boost Tourism

Friday, January 20th, 2012
Official photographic portrait of US President...

Image via Wikipedia

President Obama believes more foreign tourists can help boost the U.S. economy — and retailers agree.

The President on Thursday granted one of retailers’ long-held wishes when he signed an executive order that seeks to dramatically reduce visa processing delays, increase tourism and create jobs in the U.S. The move was applauded by major retailers, which have been lobbying the administration aggressively to ease visa rules so tourists, especially those from fast-growing economies like China and Brazil, can more easily visit the U.S. and spend their money on luxury goods and fashion items here rather than in Europe.

As part of the executive order, Obama charged the State Department and Department of Homeland Security with increasing visa processing capacity for tourists from China and Brazil by 40 percent in 2012, ensuring that 80 percent of non-immigrant visa applicants are interviewed within three weeks of receiving their applications. The order also increases efforts to expand the Visa Waiver Program and travel by those nationals eligible to participate.

The Obama plan calls for the creation of an interagency task force on “travel and competitiveness” to develop a national travel and tourism strategy, promoting domestic and international travel opportunities throughout the U.S. The Commerce Department has been tasked with creating a Web site to assist industries and travelers with information and statistics about the visa process, as well as entry times into the U.S.

“In 2010, nearly 60 million international visitors helped the tourism industry generate over $134 billion,” Obama said in a speech at Disney World in Orlando, Fla. “Tourism is the number-one service that we export…and that means jobs. More money spent by more tourists means more businesses can hire more workers. It’s a pretty simple formula.”

The National Retail Federation has lobbied for easier visa rules for visitors from China, India and Brazil, the three fastest-growing emerging markets in the world.

“Anything the government could do to facilitate visitors to the U.S. is an enormous positive,” said Bloomingdale’s chairman and chief executive officer Michael Gould, who noted how impressed he was by how many Chinese tourists he saw in Paris and, to a lesser degree, in London, during a trip to Europe after Christmas. “We need to make the Chinese, the Brazilians and tourists from other countries feel more welcome.”

Sources said tourists, including those from abroad and the U.S., account for between 25 and 30 percent of the volume at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street flagship in Manhattan. Gould would not comment on the statistic, though he did say, “Tourism has been up. We feel good about it.”

Along with the NRF, “We have been very involved in talking to Congress and the administration. It’s been good to see there’s an open ear on the Hill and with the administration,” the Saks executive said.

Sadove pointed out that in China, the average waiting period for getting a visa to the U.S. is more than 100 days. It requires five or six interviews at the consulate, and about a two-month wait for the visa, in contrast to a 10-day wait for many European countries. But if they make it to the U.S., the Chinese “tend to buy brands and focus on luxury,” he added.

According to 2010 statistics from NYC & Co., Brazilian tourists spent the most in New York City, with 589,000 people spending $1.6 billion. There were even more visitors from France, with 596,000, but they spent $1.3 billion.

There were just 266,000 visitors from China, spending $877 million, yet there were some 900,000 Chinese who visited France. The NRF says international visitors to the U.S. on average spend a total of $4,000 for shopping, food and beverages per trip, whereas the Chinese spend closer to $6,000.

“In a global economy, importing customers is a key component in the balance of trade,” said Matthew Shay, president and ceo of the NRF. “Speeding up the visa process is one of the quickest ways to boost the U.S. economy. There are millions of citizens of nations with growing economies who want to come to the United States to shop for brands that are known around the world. We shouldn’t let long lines at U.S. embassies and consulates make them decide to take their shopping dollars elsewhere.”

Robert A. Iger, president and ceo of Walt Disney Co., said on a conference call, “There are some very tangible parts of this initiative that can have an impact on our business and the economy of the United States and on job creation very quickly.”

Iger said the goal of reducing visa processing is key.

“It is estimated that for every 65 people that visit the United States, one job is created,” he added. “I know from the Walt Disney Co. perspective, we have an ability to create many more jobs by simply adding to our visitation more people from these international markets.”

Obama said citizens from 36 countries can visit America with just a valid passport, not a tourist visa. He said he has directed his administration to work on allowing more countries to join the program.

“Let’s also realize that in the years ahead, more and more tourists are going to come from countries not currently in this program, countries with rapidly growing economies and huge populations and emerging middle classes, countries like China and India and…Brazil,” Obama said. “But we make it too hard for them.”

Valerie Jarrett, senior adviser to the President, said by 2016, the number of travelers from China is projected to grow 135 percent, while the number of those from Brazil is expected to increase by 274 percent, compared with 2010.

“In addition, according to the Commerce Department, Chinese and Brazilian tourists currently spend more than $6,000 and $5,000, respectively, each per trip to the United States,” Jarrett said. “In fiscal year 2011, counselor officers adjudicated more than one million visa applicants in China and more than 800,000 in Brazil, representing 34 percent growth in China and 42 percent growth in Brazil.”

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Puig Snags Ralph Toledano

Wednesday, January 18th, 2012

PARIS — Putting more management muscle behind its fashion activities, Puig has hired Ralph Toledano to run its key Paris-based houses: Jean Paul Gaultier and Nina Ricci, Glamwirehas learned.

According to market sources, Toledano, best known for his 11-year stint as chairman and chief executive officer at Chloé, is to become president at Gaultier later this month, and add Ricci to his duties about a year down the road.

Toledano is expected to report to Manuel Puig, vice chairman of the Barcelona-based fragrance and fashion company. He has been heading up Ricci since 2008 and Gaultier since last May when Puig acquired a majority stake in the accclaimed couturier’s business.

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