Imani

Image: Tommy Hilfiger is becoming exclusive to Macy’s.

Putting all your eggs in one basket ? or, in apparel, your entire collection in one retailer ? is a high-stakes game that is being played more and more.

As stores rush to differentiate themselves, particularly in this difficult economy, they’re increasingly looking for product no one else has. But as often as both parties describe exclusives as a win-win, it just as often results in one side losing.

Vendors must take heed of the dangers to committing exclusively to a single store ? take the fate of O Oscar, which lasted only three seasons at Macy’s before being closed, or Liz Claiborne, which saw its space at Macy’s shrink after it created Liz & Co. for J.C. Penney.

But the rewards can be great. Macy’s Inc. chairman, chief executive officer and president Terry Lundgren pointed to Tommy Hilfiger, which will become exclusive to the retailer come August, as “a home run idea” and “the best example now” of the growing exclusive business at the largest department store in the U.S. This is a far cry from the role Hilfiger had played at Macy’s in the last few years, when the line’s space had been consistently shrinking.

“When the product is exclusive to us ? which makes it one of the most important products we carry in the store because it’s only in our stores ? we want to make sure we can do everything we can do to find success,” Lundgren said. “If we are the only customer, we have a responsibility to make sure this brand is highly successful, so we will want to give it primary space and location, and make sure the advertising is prominent.”

More than 35 percent of the $26.3 billion in sales Macy’s did last year is in brands that are exclusive to Macy’s or in limited distribution, including its private label INC line, Martha Stewart Collection, Donald Trump’s line and diffusion lines such as T Tahari.

Macy’s is not alone. Half of J.C. Penney Co. Inc.’s sales come from its private label offerings, including the new American Living launch by Polo Ralph Lauren Corp.’s Global Brand Concepts, plus exclusive diffusion lines such as Nicole by Nicole Miller, Liz & Co. and the upcoming Fabulosity by Kimora Lee Simmons. Its competitor, Kohl’s Corp., has been bulking up its exclusive offerings as well with Simply Vera Vera Wang, Dana Buchman, Abbey Dawn (a new collaboration with Avril Lavigne) and Fila Sport, in addition to its Ralph Lauren diffusion line, Chaps.